You see aspects of his paintings wherever you look: on Cézanne’s trail in Aix-en-Provence, France | Travel
A slice of Parisian chic in the south of France, Aix-en-Provence is an idyllic place to while away an autumn weekend. In July and August, the Roman boulevards bake – the heat here is more intense than the coast of Marseille just 30 km away – and the rows of elegant plane trees along the Cours Mirabeau offer little respite. But come November or early spring and the place is alive, thanks to a university population of 80,000, and the cafes and restaurants in its many leafy squares are lively and busy. The weather is also crisper and fresher, meaning there’s more to do and less excuse not to try out the many hiking and walking trails around town, including Mont Sainte-Victoire, the towering peak that rises to 3,300 feet rise east of the town. City.
Sainte-Victoire has iconic status in Aix. It is almost inseparable from the work of Paul Cézanne, who painted his gray corners more than 80 times. His style evolved from impressionism to something else. The bold geometric shapes and abstract lines that emerged from these compositions would inspire Picasso and earn Cézanne the title of founding father of modern art.
Cézanne’s view of the world defines the landscape around Aix – every aspect reflects his paintings wherever you choose to look. The Terrain des Peintres, a 10 minute walk from the city centre, is where he often studied his favorite subject and as well as stunning views of the peak there are several reproductions of his paintings to show how his work progressed. Nearby you can visit his old studio, the Atelier des Lauves. It’s easy to see why he spent so much time here. It’s a beautiful space he built himself, surrounded by trees and with light pouring in through floor-to-ceiling windows. It was here that he produced some of his most famous pieces, including The Bathers and many of his studies of Mont Sainte-Victoire, working non-stop until his death in 1906 – yet it feels like he just walked away. His coat and hat remain, along with the same porcelain vases and bowls that appeared in his still lifes, as well as his brushes and paints.
All this should be enough inspiration to take in the new Cézanne retrospective at Tate Modern, running until March, where you can see around 80 of his works, 20 of which have never been seen in the UK before.
But there is much more to enjoy about Aix beyond its most famous resident. Its chic shopping streets off Cours Mirabeau for a start, full of fashionable boutiques. A browse in Sézane (no relation!), the clothing brand from Paris that has reached our shores, is pure pleasure after a stroll around the Musée Granet. Just like lunch at La Fromagerie du Passage, hidden in a small street, where you can enjoy a plate of delicious cheeses with a glass or two of chilled rosé.
There are many reasonably priced hotels in the heart of Aix – the Grande Hôtel Roi René is just a five-minute walk from Cours Mirabeau; its main attraction is the beautifully designed pastel pink courtyard with balconies overlooking a fancy swimming pool.
If you do crave one last Cézanne fix, make a guided visit to the overgrown quarries known as Bibémus east of Aix. This wild outpost of jagged rocks scorched yellow and orange in the sun is so literally rendered in the artist’s work, it’s almost as if no cubist vision was required – he simply painted what he saw. Walk to the edge of the quarry for a view of the Provence countryside – endless pine trees under a cobalt sky – spread out below you. Then it’s time to head back to civilization: an aperitif at Le Grillon, a classic brasserie dripping with gold and chandeliers, serving the best steak and pomme frites in town.
Three more French towns that inspired famous artists
Albi: Toulouse Lautrec
The beautiful medieval city of Albi was Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec’s birthplace, and in the Palais de la Berbie museum you can enjoy the largest collection of his work – from his intimate portraits of dance hall artists to the bold iconic theater posters that still look so modern. Nearby is the classic French restaurant Le Lautrec, minutes from where he was born and still serves the tartouillat aux pommes et armagnac, made according to his own recipe.
Arles: Van Gogh
On the banks of the river Rhône, Arles is a delightful city of cobbled streets and elegant squares. Van Gogh lived here for more than a year, attracted by the soft light and vibrant colors of Provence, and created hundreds of works, including some of his greatest paintings. As well as the Fondation Vincent van Gogh, which is dedicated to promoting the artist’s work, there is a world-renowned photography festival, Les Rencontres d’Arles, which transforms this small city into an international hub.
Collioure: Matisse
South of Perpignan and close to Spain, Collioure has a pretty pastel harbor nestled in vine-covered hills and close to sandy beaches. Matisse arrived here in 1905 and made the bright colors and bright light of this landscape his own – especially his famous work, Open Window, Collioure, which is celebrated as a masterpiece of early modernism, paving the way for the Fauve school of artists .
Cézanne at Tate Modern runs until 12 March 2023 (tate.org.uk). For more information about Aix and Cézanne, go to aixenprovencetourism.com and cezanne-en-provence.com. Rooms at Grand Hôtel Roi René start at £130 (all.accor.com)
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